Introduction
The Camino de Santiago – or the Camino Francés, its more accurate name – is the last part of a series of ancient pilgrims’ footpaths that come together from all over Europe to cross the Pyrenees, and come across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela. It is still followed by walkers, bike-riders, horse-riders and pilgrims today.
It marks the resting place of the bones of St James, one of the 12 apostles – who took the call to spread the word of God to ‘the ends of the earth’ very literally – and so fixated on the place in Northern Spain that the Romans had named ‘Finisterre’ (they did not know about the Americas, so they thought that it was the end of the Earth).
Back in the day, pilgrims would routinely walk for over a year to reach the incredible city of Santiago de Compostela – which became a seat of learning and medicine, as well as religion, from the wisdom gained by the monks.
We didn’t fancy a multi-month experience, so opted to walk the final 117km, all in the province of Gallicia – from the town of Sarria into Santiago. And, we took an easy timescale – 9 days to do it, with hotels and baggage transfer all organized for us by a company called Camino Ways.
One of the reasons for this route is that the official Pilgrims’ Office in Santiago will issue a certificate and a compostela document for those people that complete at least 100km. And have the stamps from establishments on the way to prove it. Would we get them all?
With plans in place, we headed south – not to Spain, but to Gatwick!
Day 0 – Gatwick to Sarria
We had an early start following a night in a hotel at Gatwick, but the good news was that we managed a rather lovely beer with Kevan and Denise in the Billi Tap on our way over.
The flight on Vueling Airlines to A Coruna in northern Spain was at 06:45 – hastily rearranged by Chris following cancellation of our Easyjet booking to Santiago di Compostela (eek!) due to staffing issues. Chris didn’t mind – new airline, new airport and more train travel!
After a very long passport queue (we think that this is the only international flight that comes in to A Coruna), we took the A4 bus from the airport to La Coruna station…
and then a trip on the new high-speed line to Ourense – reaching 140mph for some of the trip! A change there for the train to Sarria, formed of the Spanish Talgo single-axle carriages (lovely, but a bit weird, according to Chris). This took us half way, where we had to change for road coaches, owing to work on the track.
In Sarria we found the town steps and the Pelligrinoteca shop – for all things Camino related – and purchased our ‘Credentials’, the booklets which needs to be stamped in two different places per day on the walk in order to collect the certificates at the end. This was also the spot where we were picked up by the taxi which took us 5km out of town to our overnight accommodation – a lovely country farmhouse called Rectal de Golan Sarria. It was a beautiful old building, we were the only guests with two tables set in the dining room – one for our dinner and one for our breakfast! Dinner was what the family ate – a lovely avocado salad, a main course of pasta, house tiramisu and some local cider. We had a lovely communal area upstairs to ourselves, including a stunning chess table.
Day 1 – Sarria to Morgarde – 13km
Luckily Chris had set an alarm, as the shutters were so effective that we thought at it was the middle of the night, not 7:30am! So after a home-prepared breakfast, which included lovely yoghurt and jam, as well as hard-boiled egg and local cold meat, we got a taxi back to the foot of the steps in Sarria to start our walk – and our first view of the symbol we would see everywhere for the next few days:
The kind taxi driver explained to us that face-masks were mandatory on all public transport, but not on the streets (although many people still wore them) and not in restaurants (although everyone working seems to wear them).
And so our Camino began! We gently worked our way up the steps, through the historical parts of the town that we had read about last night (the birthplace of the father of advertising in Spain, the prison turned cultural salon etc.) and past the cemetery. It is strange, to our eyes, to have these multi-storey ‘filing cabinets’ used to bury the bodies. There are also religious filials on the granaries built into every farm – maybe to thank God for a good harvest and the food to survive. Our first climb, to the top of the town:
Leaving the town, we crossed the Bridge of Hope – an ancient bridge over the river:
– and soon the path crossed the railway line under a new motorway viaduct:
The route is very well marked, direction posts everywhere and – if you really can’t see one of the posts – follow the yellow arrows.
And if you can’t see one of those, follow everyone else!
We preferred it with no-one in sight, good for being quiet, contemplating and listening to the birdsong, crickets and other natural sounds. There was lots of birdlife and the terrain felt like a cross between the kind of lichen-covered stone and woodland of Wales, and the rolling hills of the South Downs.
When we stopped, it was striking that this route is unusual in that this is a one-way trek; hundreds per day on this trail, all heading in the same direction. Some with their heads down, hurrying, some with their heads up soaking it all in – but all moving, and all migrating towards Santiago di Compostela.
We reached Casa Morgade, our stop for the night, well in time for lunch and rested there for the remainder of the day.
Day 2 – Morgade to Portomarín (13km, including the walk to the accommodation)
After last night’s storm, the day started clear but with some impressive mist inversions. It made all of the countryside look like a film set – with dry-ice effects across the fields and all of the grasses and flowers with small water droplets reflecting the sun.
2km after the start of the day, we reached the 100km to go marker. Much excitement and photos for all pilgrim walkers!
One village had some British snacks for sale (Caramel Wafers and Wagon Wheels for us!) and a very impressive display of British beer pump clips. Must be owned by an expat Brit, we thought, but he was nowhere to be seen – just an honesty plate for our snack money.
But there were some friendly locals to look out for us:
Portomarín came into sight quicker than expected, but there were a couple of options of how to get there. We decided to give the main trail (with its dangerously steep section) a wide berth and took the easier loop (which was still impressively steep!) This brought us into the town across the new high bridge, with the old bridge visible below us.
We were somewhat confused as to why the town was not on the river, but high above it – and how wide the flood plain seemed to be. This was all answered when we read up about the town and learned that it had been moved (with many buildings such as the church painstakingly moved brick-by-brick) up the hillside and the old town flooded to make a reservoir in 1962. Obviously the levels were low today, as we could see the old bridge and many of the walls of the old flooded buildings.
The stairs that led to the new town location from the far end of the new bridge, and the original church and statue of St James – relocated uphill.
After climbing up to the square, we rewarded ourselves with some Camino white-beer, the Estrella del Camino – which became our favourite beer of the trip:
Then lunch, whilst watching the rain come in – and then judging a gap to make our way to our overnight accommodation, about 1.5km away from the trail and with a view of that high bridge we crossed earlier.
Day 3 – Portomarín to Ventas de Naron (12km)
The good folk at the Casa from last night kindly offered a lift back to the route of the Camino, saving us an extra 1.5km of walking. We were then faced with a decision: to go the traditional way (uphill on a long and winding road) or a ‘Complimentarios’ route (the term used to describe an approved alternative).
In this case, we followed the Complimentarios, as did most of the pilgrims near us; this route was shorter, but steeper, but most importantly traffic-free.
Today was virtually all uphill, climbing up from the valley which had become the reservoir from yesterday. We expected rain for some or all of the walk, but luckily only experienced a minute or so of light rain – just after Chris had said that he thought we would get away with no rain today! The countryside reminded us of Devon, with a lot of wooded paths worn deep into the earth, and also sections of pines and moorland – but also sections that looked as though created centuries ago (which they were, of course):
Today took us past larger, more industrial farms, and some industry – so not so many of the cute ancient villages from days past. That is perhaps because the main road into Santiago from the East follows the Camino around here – in fact we crossed this road four times, and sometimes the Camino route ran alongside as the occasional lorry came past. What would the AD 800 era pilgrims have thought?
A coffee stop at the roadside settlement of Gonzar brought a visit from a white Transit van – collecting or delivering pilgrims’ bags, moving them from one overnight stop to the next. We wondered if our main bags were aboard. It was also amusing watching the various stretches that walkers were employing to try and ease aching limbs. A Portugese gentleman was trying to explain to a lady from Puerto Rico why the quads get tight, and the best stretch to release them (although she did not appear to be very keen to try the ‘flamingo’-style stretch that he was advocating).
The frequency of seeing other travellers seems to be increasing as we get on to the sections of the route nearer to Santiago – both on foot and on bike (and a few on electric bike, which Chris thinks is cheating!).
We encountered a new form of transport today – horse –
as a group of pilgrim riders came past. Are they going on horseback all the way to the Cathedral in Santiago city centre? For all that it was busy, everyone is always friendly and there are plenty of greetings of ‘Buen Camino’.
We have developed a timetable of starting the route at 0900 and finishing each day at 1200 – both plus or minus 10 minutes – and today was no exception. Near a little chapel,
we found a rural bar for lunch, we phoned and the owner of the accommodation for tonight came to pick us up. About 5km off the route, it was a lovely Casa in the countryside. We were greeted by the owner and his 2 year-old son, Rahul, and spent the afternoon reading in their lovely rose garden. In the evening, his wife prepared a particularly fine meal of paella then sea bass then crème caramel that evening, the best food of the trip so far. As on the first night, we were the only diners, as we were the only hotel guests – but the owner assured us there were many more booked for tomorrow. Excellent, his business couldn’t succeed if it was always like today!
Day 4 – Ventas de Naron to Palas de Rei (12km)
After another hearty breakfast, we got a lift back to the Camino and set off.
This morning seemed quieter – and we walked along listening to all of the birdsong. We have seen such a lot of birdlife on this trip, and today enjoyed listening to two wrens singing to each other from either side of the road.
Luckily Jenny’s legs were aching a little less today (getting used to it? Or the daily stretching is working), but Chris was suffering with hayfever. We enjoyed the various crosses and churches, and also had a really nice chat with a vicar walking the route from Madison, Wisconsin (who knew Little Cayman and our friend Anne Bradley!)
It was a day for vicars for Jenny, as when she went into the ancient church (above) it was the vicar who offered to stamp the Credentials. Good to get your Credentials done by a vicar on a Sunday, we felt.
The end of the walk was in the town of Palas de Rei; not particularly historic, but a typical town with supermarkets and the usual hub-bub of town life. Somehow we had jumped back to the 21st Century, and it felt rather different. People walked past without saying ‘Hola, Buen Camino’ and – get this – not everyone was walking in the same direction! How weird.
Our hotel was a few km out of town, so we followed our instructions and the hotel owner drove over to pick us up. We are getting used to dining alone, as for the third night out of four, we were the only guests. The food was lovely; it included homegrown asparagus and lovely pork escalope and crème caramel.
Day 5 – Palas de Rei to Melide (15km)
Before we left the Casa, Jenny had a chat with the dog – the biggest dog either of us had seen for some time. More a bear, actually. Very calm and spent most of the time asleep – unless woken up by the rather cute and hyperactive dachshund puppies.
We also asked the owner about the raised thin outbuildings we had seen throughout Galicia – or rather, we were about to ask him, when he guessed the question. ‘Everyone asks – they are called ‘oreos’ (granaries) and used for drying and storing grain’. Thank heavens for that, our initial thought was it where grandad was resting for eternity (perhaps pending allocation of a filing cabinet). Here are three from the hundreds we saw:
Today’s terrain definitely felt like Surrey or Sussex, with the paths worn deep into the landscape by all of the years of pilgrims.
But the birdlife was plentiful and there was the excitement of seeing a redstart, as well as the usual woodland birds. We did comment that this was the first day of walking when we have not heard a cuckoo calling.
For the second time this trip, Chris said that it seemed that we would be spared rain that day – and for the second time, rain started within a few seconds of his comment. We just hope that he has learnt not to speak on this subject for the remainder of the trip. On this section, there are many eucalyptus trees overhanging the path that act as effective rain barriers.
Mid-morning, we passed the marker for 58.620km to go – particularly notable as this is as close as is marked to being half-way on the distance from Sarria, and another St James statue (was he really that small?)
We noted these located outside a pleasant-looking small hotel (more on this later….)
The strain was starting to show on various pilgrims. One lady was in tears, another walked along on autopilot, and the rain led to people trudging along with their heads down and less keen even to say ‘Buen Camino’.
Further on, the rain now becoming intermittent, we entered the industrial suburbs of Melide. We agreed that this was the most tedious section of the route so far – straight for a few km, with a busy road on one side and industrial estates on the other. We were pleased to cross the ancient river bridge and enter the old town of Melide itself, and then lunch.
The hotel sent a taxi to take us to our overnight stop, which took us 5km east – on the fast road back past the industrial estates and directly to the nice looking hotel we had walked past a couple of hours earlier located at the half-way point. Luckily, the taxi is booked to take us back tomorrow morning to where we were picked up – neither of us fancy that 5km stretch into Melide again.
Day 6 – Melide to Arzua (14 km)
The day dawned with a nearly cloudless sky, which put a bit of a spring in our step. And the day stayed dry and sunny throughout our walk. We had all sorts of paths today – gravel tracks, country lane, quiet roads through villages and pavements alongside busy roads. Because of the clear conditions, we often had decent views of hills far away.
There was some excitement about the river crossing in one of the early woodland sections – an ancient bridge made from several slabs of stone. There was a by-pass available – one of those Complimentarios routes – for those on the Camino that didn’t fancy the bridge.
There is a surprisingly large number of coffee shops and bars on the route. The Camino definitely brings in the tourist euro to this relatively poor part of Spain. We found one that had Chris particularly excited – ‘The Aleman’, with a beer garden! Having thought about the language, we worked out that this actually meant that the owner was a German – and nothing to do with beer. It was a bit early to start on sipping a brew, so nothing lost….
There are still many rat-proof grain stores on the route, including one that had be creatively made into part of the the entrance gateway to the property.
Arzua is a busy town and we walked through fairly lengthy suburban stretch to reach the small historic old town square, with its café and many tables outside. We came across an excellent bottled beer – Pellegrina – which we hadn’t tried before. From a small local brewery, it was a light brown ale at 6.4%. It was now lunchtime, so the Aleman came at last!
We also had the biggest sandwich lunch ever seen!
Here we met a major cycling group – probably about 40 cyclists – all doing the road-ride route of the Camino as a group. It was obviously a big event, with police supervision and
local Galician TV filming them on this final coffee stop before they rode into Santiago. We’ll have to watch tonight from the hotel to see more.
Day 7 – Arzua to A Rua (18 km)
Jenny was excited – this was the first time that there had been a hairdryer in the room! But this turned out to be rather irrelevant given that the rain fell all day. Chris was nervous – this was the longest walking day by some distance, and his weather forecast (correctly) showed that the rain would stick around all day. Jenny’s understanding of the weather radar map showing it clearing for much of the morning would not turn out to be true.
We met Steve from Brisbane over dinner the previous night, and on the lift back from the hotel into Arzua he told us about the earlier sections of the route – the hundreds of km before we started. He made it clear that the mountain sections of the Camino are so much harder than the last 117km that we are doing. It has been easy underfoot and the undulating path was often a cobbled path. However, there were still uneven and rocky sections in the wooded areas that were becoming more muddy and slippery with the rain.
There is more than one Camino route, and they all converge on Santiago. With the many ‘tributaries’ of the pilgrimage now joining us, the number of people on the trail made it really busy – such that it could often be hard to pass on hill sections and the mountain bikes careering past made it quite dangerous. Indeed we witnessed a couple of falls where inexperienced cyclists with the heavy electric bike were just not able to control the bike on the slippery stones and mud. Luckily more injury to pride than the people or the bikes!
We had split the 18km into 2 coffee stops and a late lunch, and in spite of the damp weather dampening spirits a little, the kilometres seemed to speed past.
Other days we had just a single coffee stop followed by an early lunch.
In line with the greater footfall, the number of cafes also seemed to have increased in this section – until we got to the section where we were looking to do our second coffee stop, where there seemed to be a significant gap. There was a sense of people using marketing approaches to make their establishment stand out; one that especially caught our eye was where they had stored all of the bottles of Pelegrina beer and pilgrims had written their name and date on them in chinagraph pencil before adorning the property with the bottles. It made a striking view, and had it not been so early, we might have bought some beer and added to the empty bottle collection.
The rain was pretty steady all morning. Every time we thought it was easing off, it came back. It had its good point – it made the flora all the more attractive. Foxgloves are the more or less constant companion on the route, but Chris decided to rename them ‘mousegloves’ as there’s no way a fox paw would fit in any of the flowers.
As well as these, Jenny spied some lovely fuschias just by the path:
Pulpo (octopus) is a regional speciality but we weren’t expecting to be offered it to us as Pizza de Pulpo. There’s a first time for everything, so we shared a large one for lunch
washed down with some of our favourite Estrella de Camino wheat beer, and nice warm showers in the hotel room to follow. There was a worrying moment when Jenny’s luggage had arrived, but Chris’s had not – but a phone call from the hotel manager quickly got this resolved.
Hopefully all of the wet and muddy clothing will dry out before tomorrow. We are forecast beautiful sunshine for the last 2 easy days that take us in to Santiago de Compostela. Hooray!
Day 8 – A Rua to Lavacolla (11 km + 3km!)
We were on the road a little earlier today – guilt-tripped by being the last people at breakfast. These pilgrims all start early! The Camino trail was packed, and the km dropped quickly today. There were relatively few cafes, so these were packed out too.
There was no respite from the undulating hills, but the eucalyptus woodland was all very pretty.
Chris was pleased to get views of quite a few planes and airlines – from twin-props and a private jet, up to bigger jet airliners. Ryanair seemed to be the dominant airline, with a few of its 737’s noted on take-off.
We soon arrived at the large modern hotel, on a main road about 2km south of the airport and really designed for airport traffic. We reached it before 12 noon – and while we were able to check-in, we were keen to find somewhere more traditional and rural to have a bite to eat and a beer. So in the end, we walked back 1.5km on the Camino to the last village that we had stopped (and had already enjoyed a rather fine slice of chocolate cake to accompany our morning coffee). It was a strange experience – walking against the flow; we could almost hear the walkers whispering to each other ‘Don’t they know they are going the wrong direction?’
The bar there – called ‘The Last 12 Km’ – was the closest we had seen to a perfect English country pub. Opposite the church in a tiny village, just as a rural pub is meant to be. Our favourite bar in Galicia? – definitely.
It was fun to sit outside the bar and chat and banter with everyone on this last staging post before Santiago. It was interesting to see the range of emotions as people reach the conclusion of their journey – some more than ready to stop, others still enjoying every last moment.
Chris acted quickly to purchase their last four white beers (Estrella del Camino, of course) and we sat in the sunshine soaking up the view. Should we be ashamed to admit that this isn’t the first time when we have drunk an establishment out of its entire stock of this lovely brew?
Heading back to the hotel, it was very noticeable how quiet the Camino was by 2pm, compared to the peak time back at 10am. We were very much the only people out on the trail – heading in the correct direction this time – and returned to our airport hotel for a quiet afternoon in the sunshine. This included the time-honoured tradition of doing some washing before the big arrival into Santiago de Compostela.
Dinner was the grandest of the whole trip – waiters in suits and an upscale restaurant. The pelegrinos in their shorts and sandals all looked a bit out of place (as well as being there as soon as the restaurant opened at 8pm, rather than the locals’ dining time of closer to midnight!).
Day 9 – Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela
We woke up feeling properly excited about the day of arrival. In spite of this being a much larger, business-style hotel, breakfast was the usual of cake 3 ways, toasted local bread and freshly squeezed orange juice (Chris managed to get the machine working, whilst Jenny loaded the oranges into the top of it!).
We were out on the road 40 minutes earlier than usual, and straight into the opening sections which included some hills, but still very pleasantly rural.
At the top of one of the hilly sections there were the studios for Galician TV – not quite as historical as Pinewood Studios, but the car-park was packed and with the 3 times that we have encountered TV Galicia on this trip we have a sense that they are very active.
Like other pilgrims, we had been slightly concerned that some of the markers were showing ‘Complementarios’ rather than km, but consultation of both the guidebook and the locals confirmed that there really was only one route into Santiago. The original route had been replaced by the Complementarios route for some unknown reason.
There had been relatively few cafes on this section, so we stopped for a toilet break at a café at the rear of a factory (keen to ensure that we also got our 2 stamps for the day in good time!). Some of the pilgrims were already knocking back the beers there at 9:30am – which although it was only just over 5km to go, still felt a little premature.
The chapel at the top of Monte de Gozo park was especially pretty – and we started to get very good views of Santiago, although the cathedral was not yet in view.
We were also rather stunned by the 1000-bed hostel in the Gozo park, which was like a mini-city, with all of the facilities that 1000 people might need including bars, laundry, concert areas etc. A bed in the small, but very well maintained, rooms of 4 bunkbeds with a shared shower and toilet was just €15 per night.
After crossing over the motorway, we hit the city limits:
The last few km did drag on a little, so there was a lot of excitement when we finally came into the Old Town, and turned a corner where we caught the first glimpse of the cathedral. Everywhere was so busy, compared to rural Galicia province.
… and we came past increasingly grand buildings until we arrived into the main cathedral square. It was full of people and noise – pilgrims lying on the ground, noisy groups with drums and trumpets, and every kind of hawker and beggar that you can imagine!
We had arrived at the end of our Camino in the City of St James of the Starry Field. We took a few photos and then went to drop our bags off at our hotel, as we were very keen to go to the midday pilgrim mass (and understood that no backpacks are allowed inside the cathedral). We came back and joined the long queue to get into the mass – eventually entering via the special holy door (only used in the holy years where 25th July is a Sunday – except this year where the Vatican granted a special holy COVID extension).
The mass was dramatic – with a lot of sung sections and then a huge number of people taking communion (helped by the fact that the risk-assessed version of communion is only bread these days – and a number of nuns who popped up half way down the nave to reduce the queue!) Then there was the incredible spectacle of the incense-burner swinging across the transept – powered by 6 men and reaching quite incredible heights and speeds.
We decided that the next priority should be to get our Credentials checked at the pilgrim office (having watched ‘The Way’ with Michael Sheen, Chris had spent much of yesterday rehearsing his answers). We had also heard that long queues and delays were common, with up to 2,000 pilgrims registering each day at the moment (an increase of 15% on previous pre-COVID times and the main tourist season is still to come). However, we were in and out very quickly, with our certificates in our hands and looking for a plan for lunch. This office dealt with not only pilgrims from the Camino Francés route that we had followed, there are five other Camino routes from elsewhere in Spain and Portugal that terminate in a single spot – the ubiquitous shell sign placed in the ground in front of the Cathedral that marks Km0.0 for all Caminos.
We ran into the Canadians that we had met on the rainy day from Arzua to A Rua. They had just arrived and had some good lunch and dinner recommendations.
Having checked out the incredible monastery that they had heard was good for lunch, we decided instead to move on to somewhere that we could sit outside and soak up some of the sunshine, and watch the world go by. Rua Francés (French street) seemed to be the best location for this, and so we sat and enjoyed a beer…
before a little rest back at the hotel (which was just the other side of the park). There was a proper party atmosphere, with TV Galicia filming singers in the park, and lots of people coming past on the final metres of the Camino Portugués (including a lot of cyclists – which gave a chance for Jenny to check out all of the different bike-packing rigs and solutions).
In the evening we headed back into one of the major squares which the Camino Francés had come through in order to be first in the queue for a pilgrims meal at a restaurant there. The meal was very good value and on the way back we walked through the warm streets soaking up the atmosphere, the street bars, the music and the whole ambiance.
Whilst we were heading back to our hotel to be in bed by 10pm, the locals were all just coming out for their pre-dinner drinks. We did feel rather old and untrendy in our worn walking kit (which we had previously been so proud of because it was clean) and heading to bed when they were just about to get started. But we knew that we needed our sleep!
Day 10 – exploring Santiago de Compostela
We had been convinced that we would wake early without an alarm, but actually it was nearly 9am before we woke up. So then it was all a bit of a rush to get everything packed, have breakfast and get into the centre for the 10am English-speaking tour that we had booked.
However, the rush was worth it. We learned so much about the city and the whole history of Europe through the ages that we were full of interesting facts and things that we wanted to explore some more! The guide had a brilliant way of explaining the context of things, and looping back to historic themes when we got to new places of interest around the city.
After a fascinating couple of hours, we only had a little time to go back and explore the areas that had taken our interest, grab some lunch and then get back to the hotel in order to ensure that we reached the airport in time (in spite of the airport bus being full, and a 40-minute wait for a taxi).
But all was well, we did get onto the flight in spite of the original Easyjet flight being cancelled and then the Vueling flight being over-booked. Chris had the window seat, so looked out for the people coming in today along the last parts of the Camino Francés, where we had walked so recently.
Conclusion
The walking of a Camino is a very personal journey. Everyone has a different experience – it is ‘your Camino’ – The word Camino meaning ‘Way’ or ‘Path’ – as in French ‘Chemin’.
We found the walking lovely (in the most part), the hotels lovely, and the people we saw equally so (again, in the most part). The best parts were the peace and quiet sections in the rural areas – nothing but your thoughts and the sounds of nature. The Camino Francés is the most poular of all six Caminos, and sometimes there was just too much humanity walking, cycling or horsebacking at the same time to make it totally enjoyable.
Was it a spiritual experience? Certainly, the quiet points allowed some reflection on life that you don’t get on Boxhill or Burnham Beeches. And we got to spend the most time together virtually since our honeymoon – which was really special.
Would we recommend it to others? Unreservedly – we wish you ‘Buen Camino!’
